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| On this 2,100 sq. ft. 2-story home built in Omaha, NE in September, 2002, switching to a class 4 shingle from a non-rated shingle added $875 to the cost of the home (about $5/month in a 30 year mortgage). The homeowner's insurance rate reduction was more than $100/year, so the shingle upgrade more than paid for itself in lower insurance costs. | | |
People expect their new home is a strong, safe, well-built structure. After all, isn’t that what building codes are for? Well, the answer is YES...and NO. Building codes do establish some minimum performance criteria. But codes vary from location to location; they vary in their interpretation, inspection and enforcement; and the most likely perils vary geographically as well. As homeowner insurance premiums rise to cover ever-increasing claims, paying attention to stronger and safer construction details can pay off in reduced insurance premiums as well as peace of mind. Many of the decisions to be made in this area are realistic only when the home is being built, but some (i.e. roof shingles, water leak detectors, etc.) are worthy of strong consideration by all homeowners. The types of perils we are most likely to encounter are grouped below into three main areas: natural disasters; fire and water damage; and personal security.
HANDLING HIGH WINDS It doesn’t have to be a tornado or hurricane. Every year, high winds cause billions of dollars in damage to homes across the country. Now, highly cost-effective steps can be taken when building which can greatly increase your home’s odds of weathering the storm.
Essentially, when wind strikes against your home, several unfortunate things can happen. Your home can be lifted up and be slid off its foundation. Wind forced up under the eaves of your roof may tear the roof off. Wind can also cause the house to rack (lean) or cause an upper floor to shift where it is connected to the main floor.
The solution is to create a strong structure by providing what is called a “continuous load path”. This means making sure the roof is strongly attached to the walls; the first and second-stories (of a 2-story home) are reinforced where they connect; and that the connections for the home to its foundation are strong and secure. When this is accomplished, the “loads” (weight of the building materials and pressure being exerted upon them by Mother Nature) can be transferred to the foundation and into the ground. Certain types of building systems, such as concrete wall systems and Structurally Insulated Panels, are inherently stronger than conventional “stick-framing”. Yet, attention must still be paid to properly attaching the roof (and how SIP wall panels are attached to the foundation.) The Simpson Strong Tie Company, manufacturer of metal connectors used in home building, has developed a prescriptive method for building homes to withstand varying levels of high winds. Visit www.wellconnectedhouse.com for more information. Simpson Strong Tie Well Connected House construction details are provided free of charge with every Better Living Home blueprint ordered from Design Basics.
ROOF COVERINGS As the Institute For Business and Home Safety (IBHS) points out, “Hail can occur in any strong thunderstorm, which means almost every city and state is at risk...the right roofing materials are your best defense.” Underwriters Laboratories and FM Global Research have developed testing procedures (U.L. 2218 and FM 4473) to evaluate both flexible and rigid roofing material’s ability to withstand hail impact. Impact ratings range from Class 1 to Class 4 (best).
Generally, impact rated shingles are among the best shingles offered by a manufacturer. This means they will likely also have excellent wind and fire ratings, and typically are backed by a much longer warranty than standard shingles. They will also cost a little more than their non-impact rated counterparts. Some insurers offer discounts on their homeowner insurance policies for using an impact-rated roofing product (varies by state and by insurer). The percentage of discount can be very significant, and provides an excellent hedge against future insurance premium increases.
And, as many real estate agents will tell you, homes with 40 and 50-year warranty roofs command higher resale values. Insurance industry and academy tests also indicate that the type of roof sheathing material and even the type of nails used determine a roof’s ability to survive high winds. The IBHS’ Fortified...for safer living program is an excellent informational resource on building homes to better withstand natural disasters. The Better Living Homes initiative calls for Class 4 impact rated shingles!
CONCRETE BUILDING SYSTEMS In 2003, approximately 15% of all homes built in the United States used concrete exterior (above grade) walls (concrete block, poured concrete walls with removable forms, insulated concrete forms, and concrete/foam sandwich wall panels.) Such homes typically incur much less damage from hurricanes, tornados, etc.
WOOD BUILDING SYSTEMS Siding and Sheathing In strong winds, debris, tree branches, etc. can be turned into dangerous projectiles. The insurance industry has shot 2” x 4” wood studs out of a cannon at 80 mph at common exterior wall structures. Masonry siding materials have fared well, but they’re typically more expensive and may only be used on the front of the house, if at all. The 2” x 4”s more easily penetrated other siding materials. There are a wide variety of siding materials available today, the most popular of which include vinyl, hardboard, fiber-cement and engineered wood. Fiber cement and engineered wood tend to better survive severe weather, and various levels of wind and impact resistance can be found in each category. As with roof coverings, high wind and impact rated siding may qualify for homeowner insurance discounts. Talk to your insurance agent.
The exterior wall sheathing (the material attached to the outside of the framing studs) is your next line of defense after the siding. Insulating rigid foam sheathing, while beneficial for energy efficiency, provides little protection against airborne projectiles. Engineered wood (plywood or OSB) are better choices. And, in the face of strong winds or seismic disturbances, properly nailed engineered wood sheathing also adds structural rigidity to the walls.
Windows Also consider window protection. If extreme pressures from high winds cause a window to fail or airborne debris shatters the glass, the damage, particularly from water, can be extensive. Especially in coastal areas or those along ‘tornado alley’, windows with high design pressures or windows with impact-rated glass can be a wise choice.
Functional storm shutters are another solution for window protection. Permanently affixed shutters are probably easiest, but removable shutters are adequate when the peril (i.e., hurricane) can be predicted far enough in advance to hang the shutters. Still another option is storm screens. Attractive and functional, these heavy-duty screens are built to withstand Mother Nature’s fury and some models are also designed to reduce heat gains through the windows they protect.
FIRE Every day in the United States, fires damage or destroy an average of 1700 homes. Perhaps the most feared of all perils in the home, several prudent measures can greatly reduce your home’s risks associated with fire. Outside, the materials used on the exterior of your home can reduce the likelihood of wildfire igniting your home. Non-combustible materials are best: fiber cement siding; tile, metal, slate, concrete, or Class A fire-rated asphalt shingles, et cetera. If you choose wood siding or shake shingles, they can be treated to increase their resistance to fire. Be sure to include any attachments to your home (i.e., a deck.) They too should be built from fire-resistant materials. Your home’s proximity to trees, neighboring homes and even fire hydrants and the closest fire station are additional considerations. Inside your home, building codes require smoke detectors, which may provide precious additional seconds for your escape. Create a family escape plan and rehearse it (including the meeting spot outdoors where you will rendezvous. Consider especially how people will escape second-floor rooms if hallway access is blocked. In the kitchen, a fire extinguisher is recommended. Be sure it is rated for all types of fires (grease, electrical, etc.)
Relatively new, there are fire retardant paints being introduced to the market that provide additional precious minutes to escape from a burning home, typically by slowing the spread of flame and smoke. Intumescent paints actually ‘char’ when exposed to flame, but in the charring process the actual charred material keeps flames away from the combustible materials it was painted on.
WATER More than 1 million homes in the United States experience extensive water damage each year. In fact, water damage has replaced fire as the #1 loss payout by homeowner insurance companies. While there is little we can do to protect our homes from a nearby river overflowing its banks, much of the flooding we encounter is due to leaks that occur within our homes. Sinks, toilets and bathtubs overflow...washing machine hoses burst...water heater tanks rupture...all spelling disaster.
Water leak detection + automatic water shut-off devices are quickly becoming popular. As the name suggests, such systems consists of small water sensors placed where catastrophic leaks might occur (laundry, baths, water heater, kitchen). If these remote sensors get wet, they send an electronic signal to the water shut-off device (typically turning off water to all parts of the home.) The bottom line? You have a little puddle to clean up, not a flood! Every home should have this type of system.
TERMITES It comes as a surprise to many people that termite damage is not covered under most homeowners insurance policies. With most of the United States in the “heavy” to “very heavy” termite zones, termite control is an important decision to help protect property values. There are many options to consider when protecting a home, but decisions on termite protection need to be made early—before the slab foundation is poured. The most common method to termite control is to poison the ground around your home during construction, an important first step. However, numerous vehicle and wheelbarrow trips over the ground that’s already been treated can compromise the poisoning’s effectiveness. Your most vulnerable areas for termite entry are foundation cracks and gaps along plumbing and electrical pipes. This is where termite shields or blockers such as those available from Impasse should be used. The best ones are impregnated with long-lasting termiticides, increasing the protection of a home before termites can gain access.
Significant Facts About Termites: • Termites cause more damage than some earthquakes and hurricanes – yet termite damage is NOT covered by homeowner’s insurance. This leaves your biggest investment – your home – as well as future investments at undue risk. • Termites can find their way through a crack or crevice smaller than 1/32 of an inch. • No home – wood, cedar, brick or stucco – is safe from infestation. • Termites’ hard, saw-toothed jaws work like shears and are able to bite off extremely small fragments of wood, one piece at a time. • There are more than 3,000 termite species worldwide and 47 species in the United States.
There are almost 3 million burglaries annually in the United States. According to law enforcement agencies, most unlawful entry is through doorways. In fact, the front door is compromised in 4 out of 5 burglaries. In a significant number of cases, thieves gain access through unlocked exterior doors. The first, and most obvious step is to have dead bolt locks on all exterior doors, including the door from the garage into the home, and to make sure the doors are locked.
EXTERIOR DOORS & LOCKS Beefing up exterior doors and locks is where most people should begin. As most exterior doors are solid core, thieves typically break in by breaking nearby glass, kicking the door in, cutting through the lock or using a pry bar. Thieves may choose to break a decorative glass panel in a front door or break through a sidelight if they believe they can reach in and unlock the deadbolt. When glass panel entry doors or sidelights are being used, consider if there is a more secure placement of the deadbolt that could not be easily reached? Three types of failures may occur when thieves attempt to kick in a door: • Poorly built doors will simply break apart under stress. High quality steel, fiberglass or solid wood doors significantly reduce the chance of this occurrence. • Secondly, the strike, latch, or bolt can fail. Look for American National Standards Institute (ANSI) grading on the locking hardware. A grade 1 is strongest, offering the best protection, but more expensive. Grade 2 and 3 are acceptable in non-critical areas. Avoid locks with no grade at all. Also look for heavy gauge strike plates and be sure they are mounted with long 3” screws into the framing members. • Third, the mounting hinges can pull away from the door frame. The best defense here is to use ANSI Grade 2 or better rated hinges and long 3” screws to secure the hinge to the doorframe. (And, if the door swings outward, be sure to use non-removable hinge pins!) Keys present another area of concern. Hiding a spare key under the doormat, potted plants or above the entry door is unwise, as would-be robbers know to look in these places. Most keys have no restrictions on who can make copies. The ease of duplicating keys at your neighborhood hardware store is therefore an issue. Anyone—from a babysitter to a repairman—who has ever had access to the key to your home could have made a copy. A higher degree of security and peace of mind comes when selecting a lockset with specially made keys that only professional locksmiths can duplicate, solely at your direction. These are typically identified by a U.L. 437 rating.
If thieves do not have to be concerned about making noise, they may drill a lock to gain access to your home. Some manufacturers have taken special precautions to safeguard against having their locks drilled. UL-437 rated locks meet universal standards for drill and pick resistance.
LIGHTING Lighting is one of the best deterrents to break-in. ‘Lightscaping’ is a term used to describe exterior lighting for both aesthetic value and security. A well-lit house presents a much higher risk of being seen and is therefore a less desirable target. Lightscaping systems can be powered by either regular household current (120 volt) or low voltage (24 volt) supply. Low voltage systems can be less expensive to purchase and install, use only 1/3 as much power as household current systems, and are safer in the event of a cut or exposed wire.
Motion-activated light fixtures and an excellent alternative. The sudden presence of light can be enough to scare off thieves and can also grab the attention of anyone else in the neighborhood. One of the most tragic situations occurs when police and emergency response teams cannot find the proper address. Make sure your home’s address plate is well-lit and easily readable from the street.
SURGE PROTECTION With more and more products in our homes utilizing sensitive electronics, surge protectors can protect expensive entertainment systems, computers, communication equipment, appliances and more from sudden voltage spikes or power outages. Inexpensive whole-house surge protectors can be installed in the home’s main breaker panel. Surge protectors are rated in terms of their surge capacity (rating in ‘joules’) and response time (measured in nanoseconds).
Many multiple outlet strips have surge protectors built in. Even with whole house surge protection, this additional level of protection for expensive, sensitive equipment (i.e., computers) is recommended.
CARBON MONOXIDE Carbon monoxide is an invisible, odorless gas that claims the lives of about 2100 people per year, according to the Journal of the American Medical Association. Carbon monoxide leaks can come from any natural gas fuel appliance (furnace, water heater, range/stove, fireplace, clothes dryer, etc.) automotive exhaust and charcoal grills. Gas appliances must be vented, exhausting the products of combustion (the burning of natural gas), including carbon monoxide, outside. Depending on outdoor atmospheric conditions, some homes can experience “back drafting” where the products of combustion spill back into the home. Power vented models are available for some appliances, utilizing an electric motor to push those products of combustion out of the home. Even better are sealed combustion models that cannot release the products of combustion back into the home.
Most models of Carbon Monoxide Detectors sound an alarm when potentially dangerous levels of carbon monoxide are reached.
GARAGE DOOR OPENERS Hospital emergency rooms treat an average of 20,000 victims of garage door related injuries every year in the U.S! If you have ever tried to replace the spring in your garage door, you know they are under tremendous tension. Although injuries are rare, a spring that breaks can violently hit you or your property. Look for garage doors which use specially-designed or enclosed springs that cannot fly free if they break. You can also select garage doors that are designed to reduce the likelihood of someone’s fingers getting pinched or crushed between the panels of the garage door as it closes.
Garage door opener accidents have been well documented. Serious injuries have occurred from getting trapped under a closing garage door. Insist that the reversing process works to your satisfaction. If you install a wall control for the garage door opener, make sure it is mounted high enough that young children will not be able to play with the buttons. Garage doors are one of the first areas of a home to fail in high wind conditions. If you are building in an area prone to hurricanes, tornados or other high wind scenarios, consider choosing a garage door that is manufactured and rated for high wind and impact resistance.
